4/22 - 5/1 - Capitol Reef, Scenic Rt 12, Kanab and to Durango, CO

 4/22 - After a lovely quiet morning walk on the back road that my campsite was on, we headed to Capitol Reef National Park.  It was mostly lovely as one pickup drove by at about 3 mph, which meant holding Zoe back for a long time.  I assumed the driver would speed up after passing us, so I let go of Zoe, but he did not and thus, Zoe took it upon herself to make the truck go away...  Grrr.  

The drive from Hanksville to Capitol Reef was so interesting.  So many different formations.  Capitol Reef was nice, but in comparison to all I've already seen, I wasn't as awed by it.  But also, I was tired of visiting parks at this point.  I feel ungrateful to say such a thing as I have this wonderful opportunity to see so much and I get tired of it???  It's just kind of exhausting and in some ways I feel a bit over the rocks, but then again I do continue to be awed by what I see.  The diversity and the pockets of cool stuff and the history!  Almost 3 billion years of geological history.

Goosenecks

Goosenecks - such a small river down there compared to at Horseshoe Bend and Goosenecks State park.

After leaving Capitol Reef, I drove into Torrey and stopped at a trailhead to make a plan and get Zoe out.  I met a couple who had a heavy duty 4x4 Sprinter 144" wb and who do a lot of off roading in it.  They can get to more remote areas and I was definitely jealous and wishing I could do that, but I made the decision to not have 4x4 and with my build, I think that's fine.  They were talking about airing down their tires and how it made the drive so much more smooth when driving the rough roads.  That would certainly be nice to have a smoother ride!  They did a nice job on the build, but SMALL with 2 German Shepherds.  Yikes!

After chatting with them, I stopped at Chak Balam Mexican restaurant that had good reviews, but looked kinda sketchy from the outside.  The only other customers were just leaving, but it was around 3 PM, so not a busy time and I decided to risk it and trust the Google reviews.  It was soooo good!  I had the best enchiladas possibly ever.  Great service, authentic.  

Next to drive down scenic Rt 12 and find a place to camp for the night.  The folks I talked to told me about a great site, but it was right outside Torrey and I wanted to make it farther south.  The drive was absolutely beautiful and took me up and over a mountain at almost 10,000 feet with snowbanks.  And then farther south the terrain was just so interesting and beautiful.  I am so grateful to be able to explore like I have been.  There is just so much to see and such diversity and I don't seem to tire of seeing it.  What I tire of is doing the things.  Like when I go to a park, I need to see this and hike that, etc.  When I'm just driving I'm enjoying the views and it's so different from what I'm used to.  So much to see.  

Photos along Rte 12 heading South.  It was amazingly beautiful.

At about 9600' 

I just loved this canyon view, though the photo doesn't even come close to showing how beautiful it is.

I guess this river/creek must be what cut the canyon.  I tried to camp here, but there was no room.

I trusted google directions to get me to a camping spot, but it took me way past it.  I'm really finding trusting Google for directions isn't such a great idea.  Most of the time it's fine, but when it isn't it can be a mess.  Probably true for all map apps.  Anyway, I ended up continuing on and deciding to try a location that could potentially be a bad idea.  At the bottom of the BLM 500 road near Kodachrome State park is a sign saying 4x4 and high clearance vehicles recommended.  I had to cross a bit of water at the bottom, but still went for it based on the iOverlander comments that in good conditions pretty much any car can make it.  It did get very steep towards the top, but I made it.  Once I turned into the camping area, I wasn't so sure it was a good idea.  It was pretty tight for my long and tall van and the spots weren't very even.  I pulled into a spot; not really a campsite and turned off the van.  I was going to stay there, but after walking around I found that if I went farther in I could get a good site and I should be able to maneuver in there, so we moved.  After being in that spot we walked around some more and I found a site with amazing views so we moved again and settled there for the night.  Phew!

My final resting spot for the night overlooking this gorgeous valley.  

Not a bad campsite view

4/23 - I woke up and decided that I would stay here another night.  It was just so quiet and perfect.  Not another soul here and we could just walk around and enjoy the view and relax.  This is the kind of campsite I dream about and I found it, so I was going to enjoy it another day.  Until the wind picked up.  OMG, there is just super fine dust that blew around and was filling the van.  It also wasn't enjoyable to be outside in it, so I decided I needed to leave.  😭  I was close to Kodachrome State Park, so we went there and managed to get a site, which was parking on pavement and it was in a canyon so it might have been somewhat protected.  Whatever the reason, the wind wasn't whipping the sand all over, so it was much more enjoyable from that point of view.  Of course I didn't have the view and there were people all around me, but I did get a lovely shower.  It was the nicest public shower I've ever experienced!  It was spacious, tiled and had a rain shower type shower head.  Hot water and wonderful flow.  Ahhh.

morning views

I think this pink rock in the distance might be Bryce Canyon

Moved to Kodachrome State Park

View from my site.  Kinda phallic, huh?

4/24 - Though I would have preferred to stay at the BLM campsite, this did offer amazing view at night as the stars were out, the moon was coming up over the canyon wall and illuminating the other canyon walls.  I didn't get any photos of the night sky/canyon unfortunately.

 

It looks like there might be a trail up there, but it would be way too intimidating and precarious to me!

Leaving Kodachrome SP, I had decided that I wanted to go to Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in Kanab, UT for lunch.  They have a vegan buffet for $5 that I always loved.  I had been to Best Friends three separate times for dog training workshops.  This was actually how I got started with dog training.  I felt like I couldn't go through Kanab without going there.  Unfortunately I stopped supporting them a while back due to some things that I don't agree with, but it's still a pretty amazing place.  Heading to Kanab, I pass right by Bryce Canyon.  I've been there twice before and didn't feel that I needed to go again, but when I was driving by I thought that I should go because I was reminded how incredibly beautiful it is by what I could see from the road.  I turned in that direction, but then realized I wouldn't make it to Best Friends for lunch if I did that.  I think it was kinda silly to pass on Bryce just to have lunch, but anyway, that's what I did.  I definitely want to get back to this area and explore again with more time.  I was on my way to visit Tess in Durango and was really looking forward to getting there, so I had a timeline which puts a damper on spontaneity!  I probably should have gone to Bryce and then stayed a night in the area and gone to Best Friends the next day.  Tess wouldn't have minded, but again, I really wanted to see her!  

First view of Bryce Canyon

I just love the pink rock and hoodoos

Red Canyon area.  Just beautiful.  I remember seeing this the first time when I was with Julie so many years ago.

I made it to Best Friends for lunch and it was great as always.  A wonderful woman offered to watch Zoe while I piled up my plate of food, so that was super helpful.  It felt good to be back there, but kinda weird too.  I didn't know anyone there anymore, but there are always people to talk with.  There was an event going on celebrating 40 years and honoring donors so it was very busy.  I had thought that since it was a Wednesday it might not be too busy, but nope!  

Lovely lunch view

I was busy taking this photo, when I saw a rattlesnake!  (Next photos)  I'm happy I noticed it and didn't do anything to cause it to strike.

This rattlesnake did not appear interested in changing direction to avoid us.  I expected it to stop what it was doing until we left, but nope - it just kept on coming.  I don't think Zoe even noticed it, so that's good.  I definitely heard the rattle a few times.  

My first rattlesnake!

After leaving Best Friends, I just drove through Kanab and headed to Page.  I had met a woman (also in a campervan) at BF before leaving who told me about a great place to camp before Page, but when I saw the long dirt road to get there, I decided against it.  I went back to Lake Powell to hang out, but it was quite hot, so we just stayed in the van with the door open and oriented such that the sun wasn't shining in.  Because it was so warm (83 and sunny), this seemed like the best option.  I was planning to stay at the Walmart again and didn't want to hang out there when I could have a nice view with no one around and a nice place to walk.  

Finally I got to see a cactus in bloom

I decided to order food from a restaurant that had great reviews.  I didn't want to leave Zoe behind, so I did takeout.  It cost $45!!!  We went down to the dam to have some views to eat and I had ordered short ribs and they were inedible.  I tried to power through it, but decided that for $45 I couldn't, so I went back and they gave me another meal.  I really hate doing that, but I could barely chew the meat that wasn't fat.  So horrible!  The other meal was good, but definitely not worth the cost. 

I went to Walmart and did some shopping to support them.  This was my 4th(?) time staying there and there were probably at least 35 RVs staying overnight.  Crazy!  It was still really warm, so I needed to have my windows open (I suppose I could have used the AC, but my preference is fresh air!).  The parking lot was very bright, so I used my eye mask, took a sleeping pill, and wore my ear plugs and I got a great nights sleep!

4/25 - Took Zoe for a little walk near a park in Page before the long (for me) drive to Durango.  I rarely drive much more than 3 hours and sometimes as little as 30 minutes to my next destination, but I didn't see anywhere interesting to stop/stay between Page and Durango.  Had I not already been to Monument Valley, I could have gone there, but since I had, I just did the 4.5 hour drive with one fuel stop and a lunch stop (BLM road on the side of the main road) and walk for me and Zoe.  It was raining on and off and the temp went from 65 in Page to 42 somewhere along the way.  

I was trying to capture the wavy looking rocks that went on and on.  What caused that???

It's hard to see it here, but the scenery on the right and left side of the road are so different and interesting

I arrived at Tess' around 4:30.  Yay - it is so good to see her!  Tess and I met at Best Friends at the first of three dog training courses in April of 2013 and have been dear friends ever since.  We roomed with each other for the next two workshops and then maintained out friendship.  It's always been long distance  because she has always lived out west (CA, AZ, CO) and I lived in the east, but somehow we manage to keep in touch and see each other every so often.  It is wonderful to find a dear friend and be able to hold on even with the distance.  

Beautiful red rocks near Tess' home in Durango, CO

4/26 - Mostly hung out and went for a walk.  It is so nice to just chill and not feel the need to do anything.  I really don't want Tess to feel like she needs to entertain me all the time.  I may stay as long as 2 weeks as there is so much to do in this area and it's so wonderful to spend time with Tess.  At the same time I really don't want to overstay my welcome.  

This photo and the one below were taken at the same time, but in opposite directions.  

Tess' house is in those clouds/rain/snow/sleet.  Glad we went this way for our walk!

4/26 - woke to snow and decided it was a good day for staying close to home!

Beautiful view from my window (in Tess' home - not the van)

I don't want to get up to snow!

Zoe loves Tess!

And Zoe loves the heater!

Other than a bit of walking between rain/snow/sleet showers, Tess and I just hung out.  I did some knitting, blogging, and we watched a movie during the day.  How decadent and wonderful!

4/28 - It looked like it had been pretty cold overnight, so I went out to the van to make sure everything was OK and saw water running down the floor of the van.  It was coming from the fridge and I found that the freezer (and its contents) had thawed.  Hmmm.  Why?  Maybe because it was cold enough that the refrigerator didn't need to run to keep the fridge section at temp???  I hope so!  I think that was the case because when I adjusted the temp to be colder, it started running and the freezer started freezing.  Happy to know that the fridge still works.  

After a leisurely morning, Tess and I went into town and took a walk along the river, then grabbed lunch at a local brewery.  

Morning view from my room

Animas river in Durango

  4/29 - We stayed pretty close to home today.  We went for a great walk near the ranch and tired Zoe out so I could spend time cleaning up the van.  It took a lot of work cleaning up all the dirt everywhere.  I cleaned pretty much everything, including the cab.  My little rechargeable vacuum literally ran out of juice in the last moment when I had finished vacuuming.  Yay!  

The rocks around here are just so gorgeous and interesting!

Soaking up the sun as usual

4/30 - Tess was kind enough to drive the Million Dollar Highway that goes from Durango thru Silverton and to Ouray (pronounced oo-ray).  It's a windy road and I had heard it was scary being on a cliff in many areas with no guard rails.  There were definitely moments that made me a bit nervous and I was so glad I wasn't driving Big Bertha, but it wasn't too bad.  The road to Silverton seemed less windy than from Silverton to Ouray.  There is a narrow gauge rail train that you can take between Durango and Silverton, but the road is almost as good (I think) - at least as a passenger!  

Looking down on Silverton

Beautiful colors

100 miles of mining tunnels between Silverton and Pandora, near Telluride

Such interesting rocks

Looking down on Ouray, America's Switzerland

Lunch spot view

5/1 - Wow - it's May already!  We went into Durango again today to do another walk by the river and enjoy the lovely spring day.  The smell of the flowering trees is just amazing and all over.  After being in Utah for so long, this is such a treat to my senses.  It feels a lot like VT in the spring with the bright green grass and lime green leaves just coming out and the gorgeous flowering trees.  I'm pretty sure if I were to settle down somewhere again, I'd need this.  Though I doubt I will settle in one place ever again, but who knows!

Cool wall at the 11th Street Station.  There are a bunch of food trucks and a central area for seating.  It's a great idea.  Yummy Tuna Poke bowl!

I'm feeling a little funny staying here with Tess for so long.  I'm loving it and we're very mellow, which is perfect.  There are moments I feel like I should be doing more, but that's my mode of operandi!  The two other things we plan to do are Mesa Verde (Tess has never been) and drive to Telluride.  It is too bad that we couldn't make it a loop through Ouray to Ridgway, Telluride and down, but we wouldn't have had time to do it all in one day without rushing and missing stuff.  I need to figure out what I'm going to do/where I'll go from here.  I feel a bit out of the mode of vanlifing right now!

Tomorrow we're heading to Mesa Verde in the van.  We're taking the van so that Zoe can come and be left behind if we do some hiking.  It will be fairly cool anyway, so she'll be good.  I couldn't leave her in a car on a sunny day regardless of how cool it is.  The ceiling fan makes all the difference pulling in the cool outside air and venting the warm air through the roof.  

I feel like I should be doing more to take advantage of Durango and all it has to offer.  I think about rafting or kayaking on the Animas river, but I'm not sure.  I'm sure the water is not much above freezing!