Wednesday, April 1, 2026

3/3 - 3/18 - New Mexico - Silver City, City of Rocks, Jemez Springs, Santa Fe

 3/3 - I arrived in Silver City and it was definitely cooler, but still pretty warm for Miss Zoe.  We walked around in the shade as much as possible and stopped in at galleries for more cooling off and enjoying the artwork.  

Both City of Rocks and Faywood Hot springs were filled, so I found a spot in Silver City at a trailhead.  I met Anika and Vic and chatted with them.  They have an old Argosy trailer - very cool.  They weren't comfortable at the trailhead because they said that people were coming and going (to be expected during the day!) and there was some trash around (including used tampons - gross!!!!), which sadly, could very well be from campers rather than locals.  Seems pretty safe and normal to me.  

Vic asked about Zoe's limp and apparently she's a veterinarian.  I told her what I've been doing and she said that Prednisone might be the next option...  Ugh.  We discussed walking her and keeping her quiet and how the jumping down from the van isn't good of course.  I help her to get out of the bed most of the time and from the van, but I should probably also help her down from the front seat.  This is hard... 😒







The Big Ditch, which used to be Silver City's main street until floods kept washing it away...





3/3 - I had set my alarm to catch the total lunar eclipse/blood moon and I saw it from the comfort of my home!  It was cool and very red.  Unfortunately no photos since my iphone wasn't going to cut it.  But at least I did see it.  Some people drove in around 4 AM, but probably just to see the eclipse as well.  

I went to the Tranquilbuzz Coffee house and got an empanada and Cinnamon Honey Latte.  I was so full after and I realized that the Latte was probably heavy on the calories.  Anyway, it is a super cool place with lovely people.  Actually everyone in town is so friendly.  I enjoyed chatting with a couple from Boulder, CO who had been hanging around town for 5 days waiting for their new Bronco (only 9K miles!) to get repaired in Lourdsburg.  They were considering heading back home in the loaner car (10+ hours) because they weren't getting any info about ETA for the repair.  I feel so lucky that Big Bertha got repaired so quickly in Phoenix!









I arrived at City of Rocks and didn't realize they had some first come-first served spots, so I was able to get a spot for the night.  They only had one left.  I wanted a shower so badly, so I did that even before getting to my site.  Zoe and I walked around for a bit and then I climbed around the rocks on my own around sunset.  I finally realized that it was getting dark and I better get down to the road or I'd be stuck up there!  

Aerial view taken offline.  It is just so amazing how this field has this city of rocks in the middle of it!  



















The iPhone doesn't do a good job with moon photos - or I don't know how to get a good photo of the moon.


3/4 -This morning I reserved a different spot for tonight that I'm hoping gives me some protection from the wind and sun.  It's not too warm today, but this spot is very exposed to the wind that we should be getting this afternoon and tomorrow.  I also booked a spot at Faywood Hot springs for tomorrow night.  

Morning view from my window

I just tried to do my taxes on TurboTax and got super frustrated.  They imported my tax forms, and apparently I paid some foreign tax via my investments and then they're asking questions about how much of the dividends were from foreign investments.  Why can't Turbo tax figure that out from the info provided?  Cuz I have no idea!!!  I may just have them do my taxes for me!  So frustrating.  My taxes should not be difficult...





An evening walk to Observation Point

A view of the City of Rocks.  





The trail markers are so great - very hard to get lost.

I thought this was interesting, a was with solid rock at the bottom.


Interesting about Four being a sacred number for the Zia people.  Four points of the compass, four seasons, four parts of each day, and four seasons of life (childhood, youth, adult, old age).  Most importantly, the Zia culture believed that life came with four sacred obligations:  Development of a strong body, a clear mind, a pure spirit, and devotion to the welfare of people/family.  All of these are bound together within the circle of life.  




3/5 - 
morning view

My parking spot

I did the hike to Table Mountain.  Two years ago, when I was here, Zoe (around 13 at the time) and I did this hike up to the steepest part at the end.  I felt it was too much for her, so we turned around.  It's very rocky, so also hard on her feet.  This year, needless to say, I did it on my own and made it to the top.  I even took my hiking poles, which I rarely do, but they were helpful with all the rocks in the trail.  Poles can be so helpful catching me when I start to trip, but sometimes they catch on things making it more dangerous!





My sustenance.  I hadn't had breakfast and needed something.  If you haven't had these, I highly recommend the salted caramel.  They are my go to snack and they taste like a candy bar!



I had booked a night at Faywood Hot Springs a few miles down the road, so after the hike and some lunch, we headed over there.  I had to plan a day or two ahead because all the spots seem to book up a day in advance.  Everyone rave about this place.  It has a good vibe and all the staff there (many work campers) are sooo nice and I really enjoyed visiting with them.  One guy was from Winooski!  I went and did some soaking and met some great people there as well.  I chose to do the clothing required pools.  Actually the first ones I went into were clothing optional, but I had it all to myself.  After the soak, I took a shower, and when I left the shower, my back was hurting.  It hadn't hurt before the hot springs - what the heck, aren't they supposed to make you feel better???  I don't know why it suddenly started hurting and it ended up hurting all through the night.  Next morning I soaked again before heading out and my back felt better in the evening.  

Beautiful peacocks.  Well, the male is beautiful, though I didn't get to see him in full display.  They were so tame and unworried about us and even approached Zoe.  




3/6 -  I saw David/Cowboy's big green bus, I had met him at Skooliepalooza.  We got a chance to connect before we both headed out.  It's fun when people have such a recognizable rig.  Other than my VT plates, my rig really does not stand out!  
Zoe found a place to chill while I filled the water tank and the rest of the chores to get moving.

My last soak

Onto Hatch, NM.  I heard it was a place to go for it Chile and had a HH, the Icebox Brewing Co., which had great reviews.  There isn't much going on for this town, but there are lots of places to get Chile peppers/powder.  Hmmm.  I wasn't all that impressed, so was hoping for a good evening at the brewery.  Which I did have.  Zoe joined me for a beer, then I took her back to the van, fed her, and came back over.  Tim first gave me a sample of their green Chile vodka, which went right to my head.  It was really good!  I almost bought a bottle, but decided better of it...  I sat with the locals and really enjoyed myself!  It was Karaoke night, so that was entertaining.  Vonda (Vonda and Tim own the place - or are soon to own it) MC'd the Karaoke and sand herself.  She has an amazing voice.



Apparently Sparky's is very well known and you must stop in for a burger.  I never did and I forgot to go back to check out the inside without Zoe.  Oh, well.

So many places selling Chile pepper and the same decorations

Two more.  There must be at least 10 places in this tiny town selling the same stuff.

I love the barbed wire used on some of the cacti.  Very creative.


Zoe being not so patient at the brewery.  I should have brought in her bed.  Poor old girl having to lie on the concrete floor.

Natatlia and Marcia.  It was really fun to hang with some of the locals.

In the overnight parking area.  

3/7 - From Hatch I was going to head to Truth or Consequences, but ended up stopping at Caballo Lake State Park.  I found a spot to camp overlooking the water, so decided to stay.  I realized that since it's fairly cool (mid 60s), full sun was fine with me.  The attendant said that she preferred another primitive spot by the river (empty) because it's more quiet, but the goat heads were worse over there. 

I cannot imagine what my shoes would look like with worse goat heads than here.  It's crazy and horrible for Zoe.  When I first got in the van after walking around a bit, it sounded like I was wearing cleats!  

This was the first extraction from my sneakers.  The next time was even worse.  





3/8 - I would not come back here, just cuz of the goat heads.  Poor Zoe just wanted to do her business and was trying to find a good spot.  She had to stop at least 5 times to let me pull them out of her paws.  I tried to encourage her to just go, but she always has to find the "right" spot!

We did manage a walk last night along the dirt road, where she managed to not collect too many.  Sometimes I've put her booties on when at a place like this, but the last time she wore the booties, they caused sores on the top of her paws...  😖

😟

On a very selfish note, I'm very concerned about getting back east and gas prices, or even worse, availability with this stupid war.  I absolutely cannot believe this imbecile and all the supporting Republican imbeciles are doing this/allowing this to happen.  I hate war.  It's so pointless and destructive and kills so many innocent people.  He is the worst president of all time, but I have to say, he's making a name for himself.  He will absolutely never be forgotten.  Most people want to be remembered for the good they did, but apparently he doesn't care as long as he's remembered.  I can only imagine what the history books will say about this time.  I said during Covid, that I don't want to live through big historical times.  I want to live during boring historical times.   

I went up to Truth or Consequences and tried to do a BW, but that didn't work out, so I went to Elephante Butte State Park and did some primitive camping on the beach.  I didn't go far off the road, being that I didn't want to get stuck, but I ended up with a decent spot.  There was a little peninsula nearby with an RV on it and I thought it was really just one site, so didn't head out there, but someone else pulled out there and stayed and I wished I had gone there, but my spot was fine.  


That's the peninsula on the left with the RV and van.  




Back in T or C 

3/9 - We headed up to Albuquerque and stayed on the street by Tiguex park again (like last time I came through).  It works out really well as a great place to walk Zoe, plus itis just a block from Old Town.


Spicy margarita while overlooking old town


3/10 - Walk with Zoe around Old Town and breakfast at the Old Town Grocery.
Some beautiful native pottery.  This also has dragonflies, but I didn't capture them well.  😕



Yum - Breakfast burrito at Tiny Grocer ABQ

Good Girl!

She creates poems on the fly if you provide a topic, so I provided dragonflies. 



From Albuquerque, we headed towards Jemez Springs based on a recommendation from Hana.  This was just what I needed as I had been feeling very uninspired with my travels at this point.  I was feeling like I just wanted to drive East without really exploring along the way.  I think it is because I had already been in this area and wasn't thrilled with Santa Fe last time, so wasn't excited to go there.  I ended up staying 3 nights at Vista Linda Campground. on the Jemez River.  Hana had recommended site 7, but it was occupied my first night, but was able to move there the next morning.  It really is the nicest site in this small campground.  Wonderful hosts - Jane and Brad.  I really enjoyed them.  



Gorgeous red rocks



Jemez River running by the campground

 3/11 - Jemez Springs Heritage site.  This was interesting and sad.  The Spanish came in and made the local people build their church and made them go to church and live their way instead of how the local people had lived for centuries.  I find that stuff so hard to take, but unfortunately that's human kind for you.  It's not just the whites and the natives and blacks.  It's all kinds of people being mean to each other for their own benefit...

On the left is a Kiva (for worshipping) and I was able to climb into it, but no photos.  Then some of the housing, and  then the church.










This Catholic church was across the street.  The local native people would like to tear it down to allow them access to more ruins.  This church was a place they sent the pedophile priests over the years...  

I wasn't going to go to Soda Dam, but then it was right along the road and I'm so glad it was as I found it to be very unique and interesting.
This formation has built up over the years by deposits of calcium carbonate from a spring the bubbles to the surface at this point.  The river flows under the dome that is still growing.  This natural dam is 300 ft long, 50 ft high and 50 ft wide at the bottom.

This was right on the side of the road, so no effort needed!



View from the back side of the dam


Battleship Rock - another hike I did on my own



Battleship falls


mini rainbow in the falls



And another hike I did on my own to a hot spring.  This was the lower pool as the upper pool was occupied.  The water was luke warm with lots of algae.  Not worth a soak IMO.  Others did arrive and soak as I was leaving.  I passed many folks going in as I was leaving - glad I went when I did!



On the way back, I stopped in Jemez Springs to grab a bite to eat and had fun visiting with the locals at the Los Ojos bar.  

3/12 - I relaxed at the site in the morning, then we headed to Gilman Tunnels, built in 1924, which was worth the ride.  No hiking, but a pretty and interesting drive.  These tunnels were created back when they were logging back there and they had to create these two tunnels in the rock to get the trucks with the logs outs.  





That tall tree growing up the side of the rock.

It is quite the canyon to build a road along



After the Gilman Tunnels, I stopped in Jemez Pueblo on the reservation and got gas.  The gas is always cheaper on the reservations and their 86, 88, and 91 octane were only a few cents apart, so I put in 91.  In NM, because the reduce the octane, I always have to put in mid grade, which these days is quite pricey!  And a bonus there was that they had orange Fanta from Mexico! - made with cane sugar instead of high fructose corn syrup.  Yum!  It's often the little things.  😀

Then, off to the Jemez Springs bath house and had a soak.  I was the only person there!  I considered going for pizza next door after, but while I was soaking, the power went off and the pizza place was closed due to lack of power.  Probably a good this, but I had heard it was very good...

Not glamorous, but private


And to my surprise, who appeared at my campsite?!  Sue and Bruce!  They pulled into the site next to me.  We had no plans to cross paths here, so that was a fun surprise.  


I saw this when pulling in!  Actually they had a chair in front of their plate so that I wouldn't see the VT plates

3/13 -  S&B headed out early towards Bandelier NM and I stopped along the way to do this short hike at Las Chamas for Zoe.  I had worn my sneakers and it ended up being muddy and icy, but I was able to go until the whole trail was covered by ice.  It was good for Zoe since she could get water along the way.





Next stop was Valles Caldera where I went into the visitor center and took a walk on my own.  

This caldera is 14 miles across

There was a ranch here for years with cattle and sheep.  You can imagine them in this wide open space.  Elk frequent it, but I didn't see any.

1.2 million years ago, a cataclysmic volcanic eruption caused this land to collapse, forming a 14 mile wide caldera and Redondo Peak was pushed up by underlying magma.  A series of lakes have come and gone, depositing up to 300 ft of sediment on the caldera floor - lending to its apparent flatness.  Humans arrived more than 11,000 years ago and have been connected to this landscape ever since.  The cabin district was headquarters for a 20th century ranch and the site of prehistoric seasonal village used for millennia.  The Valled Caldera is considered dormant, but not extinct and will most likely erupt again at some point.  It has erupted on average every 80,000 to 100,000 years and last erupted about 60,000 years ago.

During the eruption 1.2 million years ago, it deposited a thick layer of ash across the Southwest and Great Plains regions of North America.  It covered 95 cubic miles.  Compare this to Mt Saint Helens only covered 0.1 cubic miles, Crater lake - 7800 years ago, 18 cubic miles.  Two were larger - Yellowstone - 630K years ago, 240 cubic miles and Long Valley CA - 760K years ago, 144 cubic miles.



After that I headed towards Bandelier where I decided to stay a night with Sue and Bruce in the Juniper CG.  Thankfully, Heidi and Eben were totally chill about when I arrived at their place in Santa Fe.  I don't think I mentioned that I needed to order some meds for Zoe from Chewy and I didn't know where I'd send it which I remembered that I had met up with Heidi and Eben when I was walking around Madrid (NM) two years ago and saw them.  We exchanged info so they were happy to accept the packages.

I did the Pueblo hike, which ended up being super hot even though it was only 70 degrees at the most.  The sun baking the rock made it so hot.  

Tuff is compacted volcanic ash and was deposited here in Bandelier NM from the Valles Caldera I just left.  Airborne ash from these eruptions is found as far away as Iowa, Nebraska, and Texas!  Depending on how quickly it cooled, the tuff ranges from very hard to very crumbly.  Over thousands of years, streams cut deep canyons into the tuff plateau, creating the canyon-and-mesa terrain seen here today.  Wind, rain, and frost the eroded (and continue to erode) holes into the tuff surface.

Canyon view from above

Wall with holes and homes

The walls of the Tyuonyi village


It sounds like the people living in the walls may have been a different village from Tyuonyi???

Looking down on the Tyuonyi village where there were about 400 rooms and 100 people lived

Ladder to a cave room (cavate), which are rooms carved out with harder stone tools

I wonder about the hole in the floor


Not a bad view

View from a cave room

The long house

The long house with rooms added onto the cave rooms

You can count how many storied by the holes for the roofing

In the center is a pictograph that has been protected


caves everywhere


The Alcove house, which is in the top section of the photo.  I didn't climb up there because I was feeling lightheaded.  

I'm glad I got back in time to head to Los Alamos with Sue and Bruce for dinner and amazing beer at Bathtub Row Brewery

3/14 - The campground was super peaceful this morning.  No noise at all.  

Sue and I did a short, easy hike from the campground before I headed out and went to some more ruins at Tsankawi Village.  These were the coolest and different from any I've seen before.  The village, separate from the cavates here has not been excavated to respect the natives ancestors.  I had a lot of fun exploring the cavates with an 8 yo kid - if only I had as much energy and no fear!

Sue




The tuff is so soft, making these deep grooves in the trail.  Some places, they were so deep and narrow that they were hard to walk through.  


Beautiful view from the mesa top



In 1943 the US Army established a top-secret lab for the Manhattan Project.  It cut off all traditional access to the local Indigenous Pueblo people.  The restrictions continue today despite decades of tribal protest.  The town and lab continue to grow and not only is the land impacted, but so are the Puebloan people.  This land is sacred.  The people of San Ildefonso, their ancestors, and their beliefs are "still here".

I think the upper hole may have been for smoke to escape?  








petroglyphs

more petroglyphs





Stairway created by the puebloans

Apparently, the fires strengthened the rock above





Then onto Santa Fe to visit with Heidi, Eben, and Payton (daughter).  We enjoyed dinner together and I really enjoyed hanging with Heidi after dinner chatting.  They are so incredibly nice and welcoming.  They invited me to stay in their guest room, but I declined.  
I don't think Zoe was terribly comfortable on the little rope bean bag.

3/15 - Heidi and Eben invited me to join them and their friend Jodi for breakfast.  Jodi is also from VT.  And then after that I showered and did laundry.  I had planned to go to a laundromat, but since it was Sunday (usually busy), I took them up on the offer to use their laundry.  Of course I spent hours doing 3 loads with only one washer and dryer.  Somehow I was moving all day and never got a chance to sit down.  I was able (barely) to fill my water from the house.  I was parked on the street and my two hoses (50 ft) just reached.  It was good to get new water in there because the last fill was heavy with minerals from Faywood Hot Springs.  It left everything so encrusted with hard water marks!

Enjoying the sun in the fenced in yard.  It was nice that she wasn't rolling in the dirt here!

3/15 -  I booked a HH for tonight as I didn't want to overstay my welcome.  I don't know them very well, though better now!  At the same time, I didn't want them to feel like I didn't enjoy staying there...  I don't know the right answer, but anyway, the HH, Tumbleroot Brewery, had two bands and I really enjoyed my evening.  I don't feel alone as I ended up chatting with a woman who was there on her own and a couple sitting on the other side of me.  I was just parked in a parking lot and it was just me, but it was all fine!
  
Opening band Wheelwright

Main attraction Goodnight Texas

It was cold overnight - down to 24 - and guess what?  My diesel heater decided to crap out on me.  I heard the fan run really loudly, then normally for a minute or so and then even the control unit shut down.  I turned it on again and it ran for an hour and then shut down again.  When I woke again in the morning it was 49 in the van - Brrr!  I was surprisingly comfortable under my covers though.  Thank goodness I have my electric space heater as backup!  I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the diesel heater.  It may be a problem under the van, so that would be easy.  Maybe just replace the fuel filter?  But I'm sure the heater itself should be cleaned out and apparently there is an atomizing screen that probably needs to be replaced.  You may recall that my builder put the heater in a difficult to access location (need to remove the fridge), so that's not ideal for servicing!  I think I may just keep my fingers crossed that I won't need the heater on my way back to the northeast.  🤞🤞🤞🤞


3/16 - After a walk on the River Trail (accessible from the HH parking lot), Zoe and I went to the Canyon Rd district in Santa Fe and checked out some of the many galleries.  I REALLY enjoyed this!  I love seeing such talent and beauty!






Eben's Golden Eagle

Eben's Owl

Eben is amazingly talented!  Check out his work here:  https://www.ebenmarkowski.com/



Zoe and I stopped at Joe's Tequila Bar for lunch.  Excellent tacos!

Zoe lying in the middle of the path...

I went back to walk around a bit after dropping Zoe off at the van and spent a long time in Barbara Meikle's gallery.  I just loved her work!  The bright colors are just so inviting and make me happy.











Another super comfortable napping position

Jess, who I had met at Skooliepalooza in Quartzsite, AZ, and I had been in contact about possibly meeting up in Santa Fe and it worked out!  I found a spot on some BLM land and we stayed there for two nights.  We just hung out and did a lot of visiting and not much else.  I thought I'd go into town again, but it was nice to just hang out.  It's easier to do that with other people (assuming they enjoy just hanging out!).

3/17 - Jess is also a late riser, so 
Jess has 4 Weiner dogs.  Zoe hanging out with a couple of them.  I love Jess's paw prints on her van!  Maybe I just add some to Big Bertha.  




3/18 - Jess and I went for Vietnamese food after a shower at Planet Fitness (I went as her guest!)

I used to get this meal in Winooski.  It reminds me of Deb, because she turned me onto this dish.  This was good, but I don't think it was quite as good as Pho Dang in Winooski...  Can't wait to go there when I get back!

I was torn between going back to Heidi and Eben's - didn't want to be a burden, but also didn't want them to think I didn't enjoy staying with them.  Again - not sure of the right answer.  But after lunch I decided to head out of town looking for cooler temps (we're in another heat wave) and stayed at a HH, Black Mesa Winery, along the way.  I didn't do so well with the cooler temps idea as it was even hotter here than in Santa Fe, but I was on my way to Taos.  It was late enough in the day that it wasn't too bad, but it was 86 or so when I got there.  I had decided to go to this HH because they had music on Wednesday night and I enjoyed the band.  They played all the music I'm familiar with from my younger years, so that was fun.  Wine was OK.  Bartender, Phil, was super nice and I got a tour (and gave a tour) from my other HH neighbors.  They had built it out themselves and had some great ideas.  Mine is prettier though.  😄

Good music


Signing off - I think this is too long as it is!















1 comment:

3/19 - 3/27 - Taos, NM, TX panhandle, Rte 66 in Oklahoma and a bit of Kansas

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